Monday, March 18, 2013

On the Road Again (Willie Nelson, "Honeysuckle Rose")


7:13pm March 12th            Austin, Texas

            We’ve settled into two separate houses, both friends of CG.  We’re all gathered at one and have BBQ’d for all the neighbors.  People have been trickling by all day, purportedly to ask after our host. They wandered in past the bus, mouths wide, and into the living room where the girls have been gathered around the wifi and power strips that we brought in from the bus.  Joelle is transcoding and Nicole is editing and I am cutting apart the writing I did on the bus, trying to post invitations to our shows here, and talking to Zweng’s girlfriend about a job in Austin.
            I go out to the bus to gather stragglers (both Ian and Zweng are missing), and I pick up Ian’s singing before I even get on the bus.  I step up and see him in a red hammock slung across the inside of the bus, using the sink cabinet to swing himself.  He’s belting out  Neil Young’s "Harvest Moon," wearing a cowboy hat, no shirt, but a leather vest and red scarf. 
            “Jesus Christ, Ian.”
            “This is how I relax.  I’m beyond sleep now.”
            “Texas has chewed you up, missed the spittoon, and hit this hammock.”
             “That’s right!”  He flashes me a toothy smile,  “So: I’m the beer-tender; you need one?”
            I have him pour me a beer from the keg nestled near his head and walk over to the Baberaham next.  Zweng is in there passed out, as I expected, and when I ask him if he’d like to join us for dinner he mumbles something through cracked lips about wanting food and not being able to move.
            Inside, the neighbors laugh and share the cucumbers, rice, corn, steak, chicken strips and guacamole.  I bring out a plate to Zweng, and on my way back inside, run into Neil mucking with a toolkit and simultaneously tossing women’s lacy stockings, still in their shrink-wrapped packages, onto the living room couch.  For someone who has just run out of money, has lapsed on his rent, and lost bus insurance, he is ridiculously giddy with happiness. 
            He’s like the carpetbagger uncle in a novel by Upton Sinclair who arrives with strange baubles for the girls just as the family has lost hope entirely. I actually suspect that he knows he’s lost our trust and has squirreled away these stockings from his trip in Thailand just for this inevitable moment.  I recognize the ploy, I see the glint in his lascivious eyes.  If it had been a week ago, I’d have rolled my eyes and continued writing, but we’ve been on the road so long that my shirts all smell like body odor from bodies not even my own, and cigarettes and feet.  My mind is still on Sinclair and my lips say the words, “Neil, you’re ridiculous,” but my body moves to crowd around him with the other girls admiring the sweet eyelets on the grayish fishnets and the cute bows on the oh-so-silky thigh-highs. 
            I’ve just looked up to glance around the room again and – “Hi Rocky!”
            “Hey.”  Rocky winks and, with the self-conscious vanity of a woman pulling pearls to sit in the crest of her cleavage, turns his backside to me while adjusting his pants to sit lower, revealing the beginning of a deep crevice whose ultimate end is the human waste evacuation mechanism.  I am not sure when or how both Rocky and Neil came to malign the female mind so much as to expect a plumber crack to be appealing to it, but the result of this irreparable error in their judgment is the travesty I see before me: jeans that appear to be on the brink of falling, an undesired preview of the things I’ll never be seeing. 
            “You should see the babes here.  Texas-sized.  Yeah, this girl weighed like 165 pounds.  Slammin’ big fat butt.”
            Joelle comforts Nicole and me.  “Look at it this way: It means we’re safe,” she says, indicating the smallness of our three selves.
            Suddenly I realize that the tools Neil has been fiddling with are for fixing the bass.  We only have one bass guitar and somewhere between Vegas and here, the connection to the amp has been ruined.
            “We could have taken another one!  We could have-“
            “Ta-da!”  This is why we keep our trust in Neil.  He’s somehow fixed the connection.  That first chord he strums is like the longed-for nightingale to this Romeo’s ears.  I think the music is my Juliet today.  The metaphor fails if we take this any further…

            Our desired, agreed-upon time of departure is 11pm.  At 10:54pm, Nicole is tugging on a new bra with one hand and struggling to put on my cream eyeliner with the other. 
“Zweng! Rocky doesn’t believe that I’m a D!  FUCK.  Frame rate has to change on all the gopros before we mount anything.  Photos looked like shit the other night.  Where is Dave?”
“God, I wish I had my heels.  Do you think we’ll go back to the other house to get our things? Zweng?  And – I’m not sure where Dave is, but are we getting a time lapse on one of those?”
I love these girls.

10:51am Wednesday March 13th
            I wake up with a tiny lego guy stuck to my arm and tucked within space-themed bed sheets.  We are at Billy’s house, and I am asleep in the bottom bunk of his sons’ bed.  Nicole, I know, is asleep above me in the top bunk, and I am comforted and amused by the presence of these half-pint grown women in the little-boy beds.  As I admire the boys’ taste in space-age décor and also their little league trophies, I suddenly, to my dismay, overhear the girls who followed us home last night talking to Billy. :
            “Can we play more music?”
            “It’s 10am, girls.  I think we’ve played out the music.  I’m about ready to start work again.”
            “You should come with us, Billy!”
            “Well girls, my boys live here.  And my wife – that’s her picture.  The band’s asleep.  I think it’s time y’all went home.”

            Skip to about two hours later:
[We lost internet/my power cord around this time, so most of the following is copied from my notebook that has been sitting in my tiny fannypack (now destroyed).  A German man who got on the bus asked, “What are you writing?” and I said simply, “everything.”  He didn’t believe me.]


“Listen, from now on, we don’t bring the party home.”
“And we test a girl’s IQ if the boys insist on bringing her with us.”
Rocky steps in, “Yeah.  Stupid and skinny? I can’t deal.  Now if she had a bottom so big she can’t walk, that would be something to negotiate.”
“Now, now.  You girls are just territorial.”
“ Doesn’t matter even if we are. No more strippers!”
“She wasn’t a stripper!”
“She told us that she wasn’t a stripper three times, when no one had asked.  She was a stripper.”
            “Look, this is not our fault.  It is just that we happen to make music that strippers love.”
            “And we’re gentleman!” says Jonny with a look far too genuine for this conversation.  “So we can’t turn them away.  Into the streets? No.”
            “Zweng, you don’t really want strippers around.  Tell me the truth.”
            “I am just trying to tap into the eternal human essence.  It’s important to add to the stories of your life and care about people while you can.  You die alone.”  He laughs maniacally and orders another strawberry and lime swirled margarita.           


3:51pm March 16th            Austin, Texas South by Southwest (SXSW)
            It’s like Lord of the Flies out here.  It all started last night.  CG doesn’t usually reach a point of actual drunkenness, but when he does, he tends to get on a path to destruction paved with inaccurate and continuous use of the word “fags” (changed here to idiots, because that is what he means by the word, and because it nauseates me to type that word) and the quietest, most mild-mannered little tantrums the world has ever seen.  Sometimes the complaint will be that he isn’t being featured enough in media, and other times it is that someone he doesn’t like is around, and just as often it stems from a sense of overprotection toward the girls.  Whatever the cause, the result is the same: a pouty man mumbling in the corner, brushing off any attempts to console him, and
Last night a rival band from San Francisco boarded the bus.  The Coo Coo set had been over for a little while and Neil had been jamming out with Chris (our equipment manager) and Ian (general manager – finances, insurance, etc.  His job is to keep Neil from running this thing into the ground).  CG didn’t like other people playing.  “This sound sucks.”
            Zweng tells him to be calm. 
            “I’m mellow, but it sucks.  Sounds bad.  I don’t like idiots playing my instruments.”
            “It’s cool man.  Think about how cool we’ll be if we’re famous, and we let our roadies play a last set, jam on our stuff just for fun.  We want to be those guys.”
            CG won’t listen.  He storms off and Zweng and I continue to talk about his girlfriend, or skyping or something, when suddenly Neil is yelling and CG is pouting loud, and I run back to the back of the bus along with Zweng in time to see Neil trying to kick CG off of the bus.  “Don’t do this.” I tell Neil, but he is on a rampage.  Neil isn’t entirely in the wrong, either.  CG tried to smash his own bass guitar after seeing his rival playing on it.  We’ve already broken this bass once on this trip, and cannot afford to buy or ship out another.  Neil finally takes the argument far enough that CG leaves in a huff.  Nicole and I walk off of the bus with him.
            “Why would he leave me? I can’t call anyone without a phone.”
            “He hasn’t left.  The bus is still parked.  And we’re with you, CG.”
            “But listen – I wasn’t even mad.  I just thought it would be funny.”
            “But you can’t smash your bass.”
            “He was about to leave me.”
            “No one would let that happen – but CG, you Can NOT smash your bass!”
            “Nah, dude.  Sometimes the music doesn’t even matter as much as getting rid of the idiots.”
           
            This went on for hours, until finally we end up back on the bus, except that I go to call Paul underneath a willow tree.  “I don’t know why I’m here,” I tell him.  I get back on the bus and Ian and Neil aren’t speaking; Dave and Chris aren’t speaking – I decide to speak to no one. 
            Things continue this way, or perhaps getting worse every hour, until we pack up and get onto the bus.  I’ve been crying, because keeping up with photos and the “right” tags, and also my own desires and how to voice them to Neil without being shot down all seems too much.  I don’t like the yelling, the insistence that we can do more than I know we can afford.  I ache for the quiet Sundays I’ve spent curled with my head on Paul’s knee and his head on mine, like a yin-yang, looking into his liquid brown eyes and feeling the strength of his arm with my wiry fingers as we talk about nonsense – the existence of a genetic marker for psychosis, psychopathy; what stars are made of.

            We hardly want to take the bus out, but when we do, the band sounds better than ever, and Jonny catches my eye self-consciously, but smiles when I smile, and Zweng is soulful and Chuck looks like a boss.  We start to run like the well-oiled machine that we are, even despite each of our own inner emotional turmoil issues.  I get someone else to man the door, and the beer, and just rock out at the bus’ stage. When little journalist from the night before finds us, and asks me why I am here, and I say it is because the way that we operate allows me greater artistic freedom than ever before; because when we are at our best, I’ve been at my personal best; because I believe in the sound of the Coo Coo Birds; because I have always wanted to be the Kerouac of our times – I want to record the strangeness of today.

6:21pm March 18th            McAllen, Texas
            We arrived in the middle of the night after I’d had a little too much of one of MG’s elixirs and not enough ginger.  They’re all natural herb drinks meant to loosen joints or heighten senses “or just let you sleep, princess,” but I hadn’t eaten enough and almost had to spill their spiritual goodness from the innards of my royal bowels upon the perfectly manicured lawn of Doctor Love.  I stepped into the house barely able to function and was led to a tiny room with a tiny bed and its’ own bathroom.  I stumbled in my fatigue, and Dr. Love assured me again, to please tell him how he could help me heal, that I could even write out my symptoms if I felt embarrassed.  What a kind, kind man.
            Doctor Love owns a house more beautiful in and of itself, but also full of separate things more beautiful, than anything I have ever seen.  On one of two islands in the kitchen sits a 3-foot high four-cornered structure with various glass tubes and ropes and perhaps a bubbler of sorts: I think it is a relic of chemistry gone by.  There is a stand-up bass and piano and 8x6 foot painting in an auxiliary living room that is otherwise almost entirely bare: “for when the circus comes to town,” says MG, referring to ourselves, but also a suspicion that these wonderful people have hosted others as well. 
            Doctor Love’s wife is a dream, a platonic perfection of what you’d dream of in a doctor’s wife.  I awoke this morning to the sound of her laughter and thought that it must belong to a much younger woman.  She is bright, beautiful, happy, clad in yellow and wearing glasses, with hair that curls around her cheeks, and is determined to feed us all.  Her eyes were wide with wonder as one after the other of our boys walked through the room – so many tall, fit, shirtless, bright-eyed men, just one after the other after the other.  Even her brother asked me what we all did for fitness, that he never saw so many fit people in one room together.  I tell him that I can't speak for the rest of them, but I am on the "Rocky diet" - a desperate need to stay under 160 pounds, as that is the weight be proclaims as being the best.
            We’ve just had a beautiful supper: a huge plate of pasta smothered in clams, mussels, garlic, red bell peppers, olive oil, broccoli, and brussel sprouts bigger than any I’d ever had, and white wine. The boys are all in love with Mayra (Doctor Love’s wife), and I am in love with life.
            In the space of time it took to record this and then have a conversation about mutual dislike of second wave feminist apologism for feminine behaviors with a guest of the family, our gracious hosts have cooked up a second meal entirely, of lamb and beans, and then home-made vanilla ice cream slathered with cinnamon-roasted peaches. 

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